Tuesday, January 5, 2010 Palm Springs
Amtrak station; Meeting us at the station was Ron, our mentor and
very special friend from Connecticut. Ron moved to Palm Springs 5
years ago and has established a nice community of friends in his new
home in Rancho Mirage. We dump our gear at Ron's beautiful home, have
a quick cocktail then head to one of Ron's favorite restaurants.
Since eating out is a major form of recreation in Palm Springs, bad
restaurants cannot survive. After a splendid meal with Ron and
introductions to some of his friends who passed by our table, he
took us on a tour of the various Cities as the areas are called which
makes up the Palm Springs region. After an hour of touring, Bob and
I were both surprised by how much the desert had exploded with new
buildings and businesses since our last visit over 12 years ago.
With a day to spend exploring the area,
Ron took us up in the mountains about an hour drive to the Town of
Idylwild located high up in the San Joacquin mountains, which is a
perfect escape from the hot weather in Palm Springs and a nice drive
anytime of year. They get snow up there on a pretty regular basis and
the Town's streets still showed signs of a 12” snow fall within the
last 2 weeks but most of it was melted which is a nice way to
experience a blanket of white: short term! Ron took us out to see
his new building lot where he hopes to build a cabin to escape from
Palm Springs. Location, location, location with spectacular panoramic
views of the valley and mountains below and around his track of
paradise. Ron will certainly enjoy the peace and beauty of this very
special place and if we are lucky, we'll get invited back to see it
in person. after it is built.
Our arrival in Palm Springs coincided
with the Palm Springs International Film Festival so we treated
ourselves to two exceptional movies before grabbing our bags,
visiting Jules, another friend of ours and Ron's who just recently
bought a five-bedroom house in Palm Springs. Then it was off to
catch the 5:08pm Sunset Limited for the next leg of our trip to
Tucson, AZ.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Palm Springs to Tucson on the Sunset Limited
Friday, Jaunary 8, 2010, 4:50pm, Palm Springs Amtrak Station; Having spent the day running between movies at the Palm Springs Intl Film Festival, we had barely enough time to grab a dinner at 'Jack in the box' to eat on the train. Figuring from our previous experience we figured the train would be around 30minutes late, so we decided to picum-nicum on the station platform until some one yelled “It's coming round the bend now” Oh Christ, I'm gobbling down fast food...Train stops and people begin to move, faster, faster, chew, chew... people began to board. Stuffing food for chewing later I continued forward. The conductor asked me which destination and I had no room for words to make the 5 inches from the back of my throat to my lips they were so stuffed with food. Looking like a chipmunk in September, I grabbed my tickets and stuffed them Into his hands. He gives me a strange but mildly empathetic nod and guided us to our seats.
5:30pm and on-time the Palm Springs to Tucson segment of the Sunset Limited rolls toward Tuscon seven hours to the southeast. Running at night, the Limited passes through the desert towns which we can only see twinkling across the landscape as we head into the night for a 1:05am arrival in Tucson. Since we traveled in the dark there wasn't much to see but from the lights off in the distance it was obvious the terrain is flat and extends far out from the train tracks so perhaps it was a good choice to travel at night as we gather there's not much to see but Mexico twinkling far off in the night. The seven hour trip was grueling in coach, more so for Bob who is 6'2” and a man who does not contort very well in the contours of the coach seats so he tossed and turned throughout the trip trying to get comfortable. The next time we do this, anything over a five hour duration will mandate a sleeper coach so we can stretch out and relax. Nice idea but practicality says on runs less than 24 hours the proper traveler joins the little people in th evack of the train, While Bob did complain about the lack of sleeping comforts compared to what we had experienced on previous segments Amtrak of the journey where we had sleeping accommodations, he didn't realize he was snoring most of the way.
We had also encountered another 'gabber' coach person who never stopped talking. Imagine someone jumping up and down in a crowd yelling your name all the while everybody else is looking at you wondering who the heck is that person yelling for. Well, we no sooner sat down than a women turned from her seat with bulging eyes glaring and yelled out, “Weren't you the guys who traveled from LA to Palm Springs on the same train I did? Sure you were. Don't you remember me?” I held my breath hoping he wouldn't do it but, no, Bob speaks up and says, “Oh, yeah, you were heading to Tucson to visit your sister?” “That's right” she beams back and then jumps out of her seat and stands in the aisle next to us asking us a bazillion questions. “Oy Vey!” Kindness to strangers can get to be a bit taxing at times but... we chatted and then were lucky enough that she pulled the ear off of a forlorn young gentleman sitting aside of us who was as gregarious as she and wanted to tell her about his tales of woe having just been dumped by his girlfriend. So she found a new traveling companion and it wasn't long before they bounded down the aisle together to the snack car where they could chew each other's ears off. When our train arrived in Tucson, we purposefully grabbed our gear and sped off the train to avoid being stopped to rattle on and out of the station we dragged our luggage and headed to our hotel which was conveniently located directly across the street. Believe me when I say, at 1:00am there are few other criteria beyond convenient one can be thankful for when finding accommodations at that hour.
Saturday, January 9, 2010, Tucson, AZ, 1:05am; The Hotel Congress is stumble-drunk-into-the-front-lobby-convenient to the train station and we thought a historic hotel would be fun. It's a great idea to try and save these old buildings and to give guests a chance to step back to the golden age of train travel. The Hotel Congress is owned by a young team who have really done an outstanding job of turning the public spaces into restaurants, and bars with a variety of energy and entertainment venues. Be sure and specify a room well away from the noise of these venues or pick-up a pair of ear-plugs from the front desk as the bar patrons party until after 1am.
Had the box springs on the beds not been torn and dingy looking and rodent traps not found under the bed, we would have nothing else to complain about. We would have liked a TV in the room only to watch to wind down after the long train ride. Friday, Jan 9, 2010, we found out the the room we were promised which was away from the noise and chatter was not what we were given. Bob went down to the manager that morning and spoke to her about it and told her we were checking out a day early but wondered if the payment for that could be applied to our return visit on the thirteenth. She was very accommodating so we didn't lose the cost for the one night. After checking out we grabbed our rental car and headed to Phoenix. That way we could see the Grand Canyon and Santa Fe which we did not think we'd have enough time to do. Now we would.
We had a rental car delivered from Enterprise rent-a-car, which is a very convenient way to obtain transportation in, through and around a strange city. By 11:30am we were heading North East from Tucson to explore the back roads from Tucson to Phoenix. If we have the time, we prefer scenic back roads to the faster, more sterile Interstate Highways. So today we decided to take State Route 79 to 77 then take US 60 into Phoenix.
I think we were prepared to be wowed but this was beyond our wildest imagination. Shortly after heading North on 77, the road parallels the front line of the mountains delivering vistas which are almost other wordly. A few miles further rolling hills begin to stretch east to west from foothills to foothills with low rise houses tucked into each valley and hilltop.
Soon we leave this behind to be replaced by cactus, sage brush and little else in the vast empty spaces of sunshine and desert. About 30 miles out of Tucson we see the sign for 'Biosphere 2'. I've been a science and technology junkie all my life and remembered very well the experiments in the early 90's where a team of Scientist were sealed away for 2 years in this self-contained environment... I had to see this! Long story made a little shorter, we spent about 2 hours at Biosphere taking a full tour and being totally amazed at 'Big Science' in action. Bob was prepared to be bored but when he saw all the plants and environments he was asking all kinds of great questions of the tour guide and was totally enthralled by the entire facility.
Follow the link to Biosphere 2 for more information on this amazing place on the cutting edge of environmental science. biosphere 2
We continue on route 77 being amazed by each new vista and other earthly skylines full of mesa's, pinnacles, valleys and horizons that are as tortured as a rusted old whip-saw blade.
As 77 begins to head northwest the highway passes through the Saguro National Park bringing back memories of those cowboy movies from the 50's and the huge cactus with their arms upraised. Some of these cactus are gigantic and beyond anything we have ever seen or even imagined. Mile after mile across undulating hills and extending along mountain tops, these magnificent and endangered species are making their last stand in these hills.
The road splits in Haynes becoming route 79 as it heads more northwest toward city of Mesa. Just out of Haynes we spot an unusual mesa which is the size of a mountain but appears man-made. A few miles up the road we see one which runs for miles in several directions. Bewildered by what mining process could create spoil heaps this large, we finally come to an observation sight where all is made clear as we peer down into one of the largest holes on earth, the ASARCO copper mines abound which are enormous beyond description. We see a huge digging machine nearby and another one across the great pit but the latter looks like a Tonka toy in comparison because it's so far across the other side of this gigantic pit. I'm very sure the local environmentalist fight a huge battle with the ASARCO over these operations. But it is clear, the environmentalist are not winning as man made mesas are popping up along the desert landscape to stockpile the rock byproduct of the copper mining operations.
Just beyond the copper pit mines, the road climbs steeply and at a point where it seems it will explode right out of the mountain top, a vista opened that was so vast and beautiful only one word comes to mind,...'Spiritual'. It is very clear why the Native Americans so revered this land. It is a vista many have seen in travel posters but until you see it for yourself, a thousand pictures cannot express that feeling of coming through that pass in the mountains.
The drive into Phoenix was uneventful compared to what we had already seen. Settled for the night, we took out the maps and began to plan for the trip tomorrow up to the Grand Canyon. This will be Bob's second trip there and my first and it is hard to sleep thinking about it.
5:30pm and on-time the Palm Springs to Tucson segment of the Sunset Limited rolls toward Tuscon seven hours to the southeast. Running at night, the Limited passes through the desert towns which we can only see twinkling across the landscape as we head into the night for a 1:05am arrival in Tucson. Since we traveled in the dark there wasn't much to see but from the lights off in the distance it was obvious the terrain is flat and extends far out from the train tracks so perhaps it was a good choice to travel at night as we gather there's not much to see but Mexico twinkling far off in the night. The seven hour trip was grueling in coach, more so for Bob who is 6'2” and a man who does not contort very well in the contours of the coach seats so he tossed and turned throughout the trip trying to get comfortable. The next time we do this, anything over a five hour duration will mandate a sleeper coach so we can stretch out and relax. Nice idea but practicality says on runs less than 24 hours the proper traveler joins the little people in th evack of the train, While Bob did complain about the lack of sleeping comforts compared to what we had experienced on previous segments Amtrak of the journey where we had sleeping accommodations, he didn't realize he was snoring most of the way.
We had also encountered another 'gabber' coach person who never stopped talking. Imagine someone jumping up and down in a crowd yelling your name all the while everybody else is looking at you wondering who the heck is that person yelling for. Well, we no sooner sat down than a women turned from her seat with bulging eyes glaring and yelled out, “Weren't you the guys who traveled from LA to Palm Springs on the same train I did? Sure you were. Don't you remember me?” I held my breath hoping he wouldn't do it but, no, Bob speaks up and says, “Oh, yeah, you were heading to Tucson to visit your sister?” “That's right” she beams back and then jumps out of her seat and stands in the aisle next to us asking us a bazillion questions. “Oy Vey!” Kindness to strangers can get to be a bit taxing at times but... we chatted and then were lucky enough that she pulled the ear off of a forlorn young gentleman sitting aside of us who was as gregarious as she and wanted to tell her about his tales of woe having just been dumped by his girlfriend. So she found a new traveling companion and it wasn't long before they bounded down the aisle together to the snack car where they could chew each other's ears off. When our train arrived in Tucson, we purposefully grabbed our gear and sped off the train to avoid being stopped to rattle on and out of the station we dragged our luggage and headed to our hotel which was conveniently located directly across the street. Believe me when I say, at 1:00am there are few other criteria beyond convenient one can be thankful for when finding accommodations at that hour.
Saturday, January 9, 2010, Tucson, AZ, 1:05am; The Hotel Congress is stumble-drunk-into-the-front-lobby-convenient to the train station and we thought a historic hotel would be fun. It's a great idea to try and save these old buildings and to give guests a chance to step back to the golden age of train travel. The Hotel Congress is owned by a young team who have really done an outstanding job of turning the public spaces into restaurants, and bars with a variety of energy and entertainment venues. Be sure and specify a room well away from the noise of these venues or pick-up a pair of ear-plugs from the front desk as the bar patrons party until after 1am.
Had the box springs on the beds not been torn and dingy looking and rodent traps not found under the bed, we would have nothing else to complain about. We would have liked a TV in the room only to watch to wind down after the long train ride. Friday, Jan 9, 2010, we found out the the room we were promised which was away from the noise and chatter was not what we were given. Bob went down to the manager that morning and spoke to her about it and told her we were checking out a day early but wondered if the payment for that could be applied to our return visit on the thirteenth. She was very accommodating so we didn't lose the cost for the one night. After checking out we grabbed our rental car and headed to Phoenix. That way we could see the Grand Canyon and Santa Fe which we did not think we'd have enough time to do. Now we would.
We had a rental car delivered from Enterprise rent-a-car, which is a very convenient way to obtain transportation in, through and around a strange city. By 11:30am we were heading North East from Tucson to explore the back roads from Tucson to Phoenix. If we have the time, we prefer scenic back roads to the faster, more sterile Interstate Highways. So today we decided to take State Route 79 to 77 then take US 60 into Phoenix.
I think we were prepared to be wowed but this was beyond our wildest imagination. Shortly after heading North on 77, the road parallels the front line of the mountains delivering vistas which are almost other wordly. A few miles further rolling hills begin to stretch east to west from foothills to foothills with low rise houses tucked into each valley and hilltop.
Soon we leave this behind to be replaced by cactus, sage brush and little else in the vast empty spaces of sunshine and desert. About 30 miles out of Tucson we see the sign for 'Biosphere 2'. I've been a science and technology junkie all my life and remembered very well the experiments in the early 90's where a team of Scientist were sealed away for 2 years in this self-contained environment... I had to see this! Long story made a little shorter, we spent about 2 hours at Biosphere taking a full tour and being totally amazed at 'Big Science' in action. Bob was prepared to be bored but when he saw all the plants and environments he was asking all kinds of great questions of the tour guide and was totally enthralled by the entire facility.
Follow the link to Biosphere 2 for more information on this amazing place on the cutting edge of environmental science. biosphere 2
We continue on route 77 being amazed by each new vista and other earthly skylines full of mesa's, pinnacles, valleys and horizons that are as tortured as a rusted old whip-saw blade.
As 77 begins to head northwest the highway passes through the Saguro National Park bringing back memories of those cowboy movies from the 50's and the huge cactus with their arms upraised. Some of these cactus are gigantic and beyond anything we have ever seen or even imagined. Mile after mile across undulating hills and extending along mountain tops, these magnificent and endangered species are making their last stand in these hills.
The road splits in Haynes becoming route 79 as it heads more northwest toward city of Mesa. Just out of Haynes we spot an unusual mesa which is the size of a mountain but appears man-made. A few miles up the road we see one which runs for miles in several directions. Bewildered by what mining process could create spoil heaps this large, we finally come to an observation sight where all is made clear as we peer down into one of the largest holes on earth, the ASARCO copper mines abound which are enormous beyond description. We see a huge digging machine nearby and another one across the great pit but the latter looks like a Tonka toy in comparison because it's so far across the other side of this gigantic pit. I'm very sure the local environmentalist fight a huge battle with the ASARCO over these operations. But it is clear, the environmentalist are not winning as man made mesas are popping up along the desert landscape to stockpile the rock byproduct of the copper mining operations.
Just beyond the copper pit mines, the road climbs steeply and at a point where it seems it will explode right out of the mountain top, a vista opened that was so vast and beautiful only one word comes to mind,...'Spiritual'. It is very clear why the Native Americans so revered this land. It is a vista many have seen in travel posters but until you see it for yourself, a thousand pictures cannot express that feeling of coming through that pass in the mountains.
The drive into Phoenix was uneventful compared to what we had already seen. Settled for the night, we took out the maps and began to plan for the trip tomorrow up to the Grand Canyon. This will be Bob's second trip there and my first and it is hard to sleep thinking about it.
The Sunset Limited- Los Angeles to Palm Springs
Wednesday, January 6, 2010, 2:35pm. Los Angeles, CA: The Sunset limited rolls out of the magnificent Union Station, which has got to be one of the most impressive and grand terminals in the United States. The train room and train corridor are spaces which have been lovingly preserved just the way they were in the 1930's at the height of their grandeur. As you walk through the waiting room you can just feel the regiments of movie stars, grand people, he ordinary Joe's, the thousands of brave men heading off to the War(s) and the fewer number who were able to make the long walk back through the impressive foyer on their ways home and to new lives. This is a waiting room and train hall where by the act of walking through them makes you feel the excitement of adventure which waits down the long corridor where the platforms branch left and right.
Part of the expense to preserve this great building comes from renting it out for weddings, movies and special events. It is a creative way to maintain a grand building such as this and we hope the idea is transported to other parts of the country before any more of these historic structures are lost.
For information on the Sunset Limited click here; Technical information about the Sunset Limited
Amtraks Informatiion, Route Guide and Schedule about the Sunset Limited;Amtrak, Sunset Limited informnation
For information on the Sunset Limited click here; Technical information about the Sunset Limited
Sunset limiteds 3 day trek across the AmericanSouthest
Amtraks Informatiion, Route Guide and Schedule about the Sunset Limited;Amtrak, Sunset Limited informnation
We find our coach and right on time the Southwest Limited blows her whistle and begins to roll out of Union Station for the every-other day run across the Southwestern border of the United States. As we head South and East out of LA the first views are of hard-scrabble neighborhoods where life is mean and often short, small manufacturing and fabrication facilities sometimes stuffed 15 to the building via for location on odd shaped lots. In a few minutes these tough neighborhoods give way to tree lined avenues stretching deep across South LA. The neighborhoods give way to larger manufacturing facilities where we get pulled onto a siding track to wait for a freight train to crawl into the LA railroad yards. Again we are reminded that these rails are all about freight and we are barely tolerated, step children at someone else's dinner party.
The suburbs of Pamona and Ontario glide by with their neat industrial parks and office complexes. Our side kick as we roll through the flatlands of Orange County are the peaks of the mountains in the East. Around 4:00pm the dining car steward comes bounding through our observation car yelling what sounds like , Dinerentshun, Dinerentshun.” Then we realize he was mumbling “Dinner reservations.” No takers from us as our trip lasts a mere three hours and our destination, Palm Springs, is famous for its restaurants.
Homeless people under the viaducts remind us of one of this regions biggest challenges. The weather is so good it is a magnet for homeless people from all over the country... if they can get here. We try to remember which flood viaduct was used in which movie. We recognize the one used in the Terminator, and the one from the the Italian Job but the rest were anonymous.
As we get further out of Los Angeles we enter the Rolling hills of Loma Linda scoured clean after the fires as evidenced by the solitary mansion sitting on a mountain top here and there. As we enter the Palm Springs Valley, we are surrounded by hundreds of wind generators stretching along the tracks along both sides of the valley which is beautiful and rhythmic and attests to how one state's commitment to alternative power is making a solid impact on the amount of fossil fuels used for power generation. Equally important in Palm Springs is the use of solar power for generating hot water and power is growing rapidly
Right on time we arrive in Palm Springs with our good friend, Ron waiting for us on the station platform and we are ready experience a couple of days of warmth in the Southern California sun.
Right on time we arrive in Palm Springs with our good friend, Ron waiting for us on the station platform and we are ready experience a couple of days of warmth in the Southern California sun.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
The Coast Starlight - Oakland to Los Angeles
Tuesday, January 5,2010, 8:35 am; We board the Coastal Starlight for the trip to Los Angeles. It is a pleasure to be back on the Starlight since it has become our favorite train thus far. This leg we are traveling in Coach for the 13 hour run to LA.
The Starlight heads down California's Central Valley, America's vegetable bowl then, turns West across the tortured spine of the San Andreas Fault, paralleling the Pacific coast to Santa Barbara before it turns back inland to make the final run into Greater Los Angeles.
Once the train leaves the sprawl of Silicon Valley, the terrain wrinkles into gently rolling hills which appear to have been covered with some verdant form of felt. They roll majestically and politely for miles until just before Gilroy, CA where they divide with one set of hills rolling toward the Eastern horizon and the other rolling to the West. In the space they create and spreading from mountain range to mountain range in both directions is a table-top flat valley which produces most of the vegetables consumed in this country. Row after row, mile after mile, separated by the occasional irrigation canal and punctuated by the occasional giant fan used to stir the air when the temperature drops to prevent freezing.
Mesmerizing in its monotony, it is phenomenal to believe so much land is cultivated in so many ways to grow so much food and we get to see only a small portion as the valley continues southward ever expanding until it is easily half the width of the State. We, on the other hand, begin to past the dinosaur-like structures that rhythmically feed insatiably on the oil deep below.. Turning slowly to the West we begin a long, slow ascent up and over the mountains as we twist our way toward San Luis Obispo. Descending on the other side of the mountains at one point the train makes a descending 'U' turn that almost appears to make a complete circle. Looking out the window the locomotive almost appears to be looking straight back at us as it twists it's way down the mountain. Passing a huge prison just outside of San Luis Obispo we soon came to the small but beautiful town which has long been considered the dividing point between geographic Northern and Southern California. If driving, it is at San Luis Obispo where you must make the decision to follow the Winnebagos up the Pacific Coast Highway to Big Sur, Monterey and on into San Francisco or to take the quicker route up US101.
Fortunately, the decision is made for us and we continue our trek toward the Pacific with Santa Barbara just ahead. We parallel the Pacific just long enough to catch the setting sun as our dinner reservations are announced. Tonight we shared a table with a couple from Perth Australia who had been in Seattle attending their son's wedding. He was a psychologist and she worked in Community organizing, just like Pres. Obama! They were on their way to LA to catch the long flight home to Perth. Bob, having made the flight to Sydney several years ago commiserated on just how miserable 22 hours on an airplane can be. He was on the same flight with McKensie Phillips during what now seems were her turbulent years so, in hindsight, the flight had more significance than he knew. Having flown 13 hours once myself on a flight from New York to Tokyo, I could only imagine what another 9 or 10 hours would have been like. There are not enough bad movies, airline food and cramped seats on any airline to make me ever want to stay in a flying toothpaste tube for 22 hours. Run tracks from LA to Sydney and we'll talk...
On both segments of the Coastal Starlight the food has been excellent, freshly prepared, creative and tasty. Back at our table in the observation car (oh yeah, I think we forgot to tell you as soon as the conductor checked our tickets we headed for the Observation car and spent the entire trip surrounded by the view). We have learned to find seats in an observation car and camp-out for the duration or at least until dark. It is the place for great views, good conversation and you can find a stable surface for working on your blog. Bob met a French woman who professed to being an intuitive and had a dashing conversation talking about a book he's reading on his kindle and then in stepped a handsome male PHD theology professor from Italy who seemed to corner the market with an interest on the woman so Bob made his excuses and came and sat with me while the dance of the minds took place with the two European adventurers.
After Santa Barbara, the route to LA takes you through the suburban communities of Oxnard, Simi Valley, Van Nuys and finally, Los Angeles' Union Station where we gather our baggage and hail a cab for our first night in a hotel since the trip began. We would have stayed at an Inn or B&B in LA but we arrive late on Tuesday night and leave mid-day tomorrow for Palm Springs so we opted for convenience over desire. Bags in tow we head off for a cheap night on the road. Checked in to the Kyoto Grand Hotel and Gardens ( a steal at $150/night ) and ready to unwind a bit we go down to the bar where the bartendress was born in Connecticut and her family currently lives in Brewster. C'est un petit monde, n'est pas?
The Starlight heads down California's Central Valley, America's vegetable bowl then, turns West across the tortured spine of the San Andreas Fault, paralleling the Pacific coast to Santa Barbara before it turns back inland to make the final run into Greater Los Angeles.
Once the train leaves the sprawl of Silicon Valley, the terrain wrinkles into gently rolling hills which appear to have been covered with some verdant form of felt. They roll majestically and politely for miles until just before Gilroy, CA where they divide with one set of hills rolling toward the Eastern horizon and the other rolling to the West. In the space they create and spreading from mountain range to mountain range in both directions is a table-top flat valley which produces most of the vegetables consumed in this country. Row after row, mile after mile, separated by the occasional irrigation canal and punctuated by the occasional giant fan used to stir the air when the temperature drops to prevent freezing.
Mesmerizing in its monotony, it is phenomenal to believe so much land is cultivated in so many ways to grow so much food and we get to see only a small portion as the valley continues southward ever expanding until it is easily half the width of the State. We, on the other hand, begin to past the dinosaur-like structures that rhythmically feed insatiably on the oil deep below.. Turning slowly to the West we begin a long, slow ascent up and over the mountains as we twist our way toward San Luis Obispo. Descending on the other side of the mountains at one point the train makes a descending 'U' turn that almost appears to make a complete circle. Looking out the window the locomotive almost appears to be looking straight back at us as it twists it's way down the mountain. Passing a huge prison just outside of San Luis Obispo we soon came to the small but beautiful town which has long been considered the dividing point between geographic Northern and Southern California. If driving, it is at San Luis Obispo where you must make the decision to follow the Winnebagos up the Pacific Coast Highway to Big Sur, Monterey and on into San Francisco or to take the quicker route up US101.
Fortunately, the decision is made for us and we continue our trek toward the Pacific with Santa Barbara just ahead. We parallel the Pacific just long enough to catch the setting sun as our dinner reservations are announced. Tonight we shared a table with a couple from Perth Australia who had been in Seattle attending their son's wedding. He was a psychologist and she worked in Community organizing, just like Pres. Obama! They were on their way to LA to catch the long flight home to Perth. Bob, having made the flight to Sydney several years ago commiserated on just how miserable 22 hours on an airplane can be. He was on the same flight with McKensie Phillips during what now seems were her turbulent years so, in hindsight, the flight had more significance than he knew. Having flown 13 hours once myself on a flight from New York to Tokyo, I could only imagine what another 9 or 10 hours would have been like. There are not enough bad movies, airline food and cramped seats on any airline to make me ever want to stay in a flying toothpaste tube for 22 hours. Run tracks from LA to Sydney and we'll talk...
On both segments of the Coastal Starlight the food has been excellent, freshly prepared, creative and tasty. Back at our table in the observation car (oh yeah, I think we forgot to tell you as soon as the conductor checked our tickets we headed for the Observation car and spent the entire trip surrounded by the view). We have learned to find seats in an observation car and camp-out for the duration or at least until dark. It is the place for great views, good conversation and you can find a stable surface for working on your blog. Bob met a French woman who professed to being an intuitive and had a dashing conversation talking about a book he's reading on his kindle and then in stepped a handsome male PHD theology professor from Italy who seemed to corner the market with an interest on the woman so Bob made his excuses and came and sat with me while the dance of the minds took place with the two European adventurers.
After Santa Barbara, the route to LA takes you through the suburban communities of Oxnard, Simi Valley, Van Nuys and finally, Los Angeles' Union Station where we gather our baggage and hail a cab for our first night in a hotel since the trip began. We would have stayed at an Inn or B&B in LA but we arrive late on Tuesday night and leave mid-day tomorrow for Palm Springs so we opted for convenience over desire. Bags in tow we head off for a cheap night on the road. Checked in to the Kyoto Grand Hotel and Gardens ( a steal at $150/night ) and ready to unwind a bit we go down to the bar where the bartendress was born in Connecticut and her family currently lives in Brewster. C'est un petit monde, n'est pas?
A Couple of Days With Good friends in San Francisco...
One of our oldest friends lives in Mill Valley, which sits at the base of Mt.Tamalpais, the highest peak in the Bay area. His home is located at the highest point where people are allowed to build and has a commanding view of the entire bay. It is a place where time standstill and your ability to listen to your inner self is most pronounced. It is a place of spectacular beauty and deep inner peace.
Because of the demands of our business, we had not visited this place in almost 15 years. The affect of seeing and being in this place again was deeply moving for Bob and I and for the next 2 days we did little else but 'kick it outta gear' and let this special place do its magic on us. We took the opportunity to do laundry and to go into San Francisco to catch Cirque D'Soliel's new show, 'Ovo' (pure magic), a Chinese dinner in Dirk's favorite restaurant in China Town and a walk through the Haight.
Next morning we woke when the mood struck us, had some tea and coffee, packed Tonka, Dirk's Labrador Retriever, a knapsack full of tennis balls and headed for Stinson Beach where we enjoyed a fantastic breakfast and a long walk in the warm sunshine playing catch with the the Dog. The dog won by a score of 15-2... We were skunked by a Labrador! Never work with Kids and dogs...
After Tonka wore us out, we headed up the coast a few miles to 'Muir Woods Ntl. Monument'. It isn't necessary to go all the way to 'Big Sur' to see breathtaking coastline when Stinson beach and the Marin headlands is just down the road. Muir Woods is certainly one of the most serene and grand spaces nature has ever shared with man.. Muir woods is a grove of ancient giant redwoods which create a magnificent sanctuary perfect for finding that point deep within each of us where we understand why it is necessary to protect the special places and the elemental role they play in putting us in touch with our inner selves. It is a place we all need to visit.
The rest of the time in Mill Valley was spent enjoying Dirk and his special home. It was a bitter sweet goodbye at Jack London Terminal in Oakland Tuesday morning as we again boarded the Coastal Starlight for the run South to Los Angeles.
Because of the demands of our business, we had not visited this place in almost 15 years. The affect of seeing and being in this place again was deeply moving for Bob and I and for the next 2 days we did little else but 'kick it outta gear' and let this special place do its magic on us. We took the opportunity to do laundry and to go into San Francisco to catch Cirque D'Soliel's new show, 'Ovo' (pure magic), a Chinese dinner in Dirk's favorite restaurant in China Town and a walk through the Haight.
Next morning we woke when the mood struck us, had some tea and coffee, packed Tonka, Dirk's Labrador Retriever, a knapsack full of tennis balls and headed for Stinson Beach where we enjoyed a fantastic breakfast and a long walk in the warm sunshine playing catch with the the Dog. The dog won by a score of 15-2... We were skunked by a Labrador! Never work with Kids and dogs...
After Tonka wore us out, we headed up the coast a few miles to 'Muir Woods Ntl. Monument'. It isn't necessary to go all the way to 'Big Sur' to see breathtaking coastline when Stinson beach and the Marin headlands is just down the road. Muir Woods is certainly one of the most serene and grand spaces nature has ever shared with man.. Muir woods is a grove of ancient giant redwoods which create a magnificent sanctuary perfect for finding that point deep within each of us where we understand why it is necessary to protect the special places and the elemental role they play in putting us in touch with our inner selves. It is a place we all need to visit.
The rest of the time in Mill Valley was spent enjoying Dirk and his special home. It was a bitter sweet goodbye at Jack London Terminal in Oakland Tuesday morning as we again boarded the Coastal Starlight for the run South to Los Angeles.
The Coast Starlight - Seattle to San Francisco
Saturday, January 2, 2010, 8:30am; We catch a $10 taxi ride from The Gaslight Inn back to the King Street Amtrak Station. Plenty of time to check baggage, and grab a seat in the badly remuddled train room what must have been a magnificent building at one time has been
reduced to a drop-ceiling, Fluorescent lit holding pen. It's too bad since this is the beginning of the Coastal Starlight which is one of the most magnificent trains we had the pleasure to enjoy.
Maybe they understate the station so the trip will appear even more impressive.
But few train trips in this country can equal the Amtrak Coastal Starlight for scenery, service, food or comfort.
For information from Amtrak about the Coast Starlight click here: Amtrak's Coast Starlight
For information from Wikipedia about the Coastal Starlight's history and make-up click here: about Amtrak's Coast Starlight.
Our economy roomette was located at the end of the car and next to the 'Parlor Car' a space we would soon claim as our own for the duration of our first day heading South along the spectacular coast of the Pacific Northwest. The train left the station at 9:55am on the button and in moments we are twisting our way along Washington State's coves and inlets. Views of the islands fill the better part of the morning as we head further south, then before we cross the border into Oregon, we are treated to a bald eagle who gives us a show as if he's on the Amtrak payroll! Wow, just like something out of the Amtrak brochure. It just doesn't get any better than this!
The train continues South, moving inland from the coast into the part of Washington where your house came from. The imprint of the timber industry is obvious all around with huge mustering yards for assembling trains of building material for markets around the world.
Equally obvious is the effect of the global downturn in building. Houses along the tracks reflect better days of bygone times but now cars rust in lonely yards, businesses sit abandoned on empty streets. Hard times have come to this region of the country and seems to have been the only thing to have taken up residence in the last few years. Soon we are crossing the Willamette river separating Vancouver, Washington from Portland, Oregon . Portland was a dazzling city with lots of new, contemporary architecture on the skyline. It has been a few years since I visited Portland and it was wonderful then and appears to have only gotten better... plus, it wasn't raining...
After Portland we continue along the coast for a while longer then turn in-land for the run to Sacramento down California's central valley. Along the way as the sun sets, we get into snow country as our reservation is called for dinner. We are seated with a couple who boarded in Vancouver Washington. They are such a sketch, he is in construction and she slips me her card and puts her fingers to her lips... I discreetly read Amtrak Station Agent Looking around she whispers 37 years with Amtrak. We tell her what we are doing and she shares LOTS of good ideas and tips about riding the rails... They were on their way to visit their son who works at Berkley and slips us a CD he has just recorded (if you get the chance go to his web site and listen to Jacob Wolkenhauer's work .http://www.jacobwolkenhauer.com/ it was the perfect music to spend sitting by the window, reading and watching the scenery go by. You can even buy Jacob's work on ITunes at: ITunes Jacob's new CD Flux ).
The dinner was the best we had had on any route thus far. All the meals were freshly prepared and served piping hot. The conversation ran long and we promised to share the CD with a friend in Provincetown who owns a music store. Several times over the last few days we have enjoyed this very special gift and intend to stay in touch with these new, wonderful friends... and if we ever have a problem with Amtrak now know who to call!
Breakfast call was early and by 6:30am we are enjoying fresh hot pancakes, steaming coffee and tea, and home-made corned beef hash. Breakfast finished we headed back to pack and reclaim seats in the Parlor Car for the final approach to Oakland along the East Bay,
passing the 'Moth Ball' fleet and continuing all the way to Emeryville. We arrive in Oakland about 30 minutes late, grab our luggage and meet our friend, Dirk.
The Coastal Starlight deserves a 9 out of 10. Great service, good food, well maintained equipment, beautiful scenery, but the track bed needs attention.
Exploring Seattle (abridged)
12/31/09, 10:00am. We arrived in Seattle after two nights on the rails so we were ready for some terra firma under our feet. On the train en route to Seattle we called Trevor, the Innkeeper of the Gaslight Inn, so he would be expecting us, picked up our baggage, hopped in a taxi and sped off to the Capitol Hill area and the Gaslight Inn.
The Inn is a stately, craftsman-style home lovingly restored and meticulously maintained by her owners. Located in a residential neighborhood with friendly restaurants and stores just two blocks away, The Gaslight Inn has a rich palette of interior furnishings such as oak wainscoting, recessed oak paneling, and massive pocket doors separating its many public spaces. The owner's have lavished the property with very tasteful collections of Stickley-style furniture, native American artifacts, regional paintings and a magnificent collection of Murano-style local glass sculptures. Entering the Gasdlight Inn, Two parlor rooms flank a welcoming entrance foyer with an oversized round oak table replete with a large spray of fresh flowers. The paneled dining room with a magnificent quarter sawn oak dining table is accented with alcoves displaying local glass sculptures. The guest rooms are large and well appointed, with overstuffed leather chairs, comfortable beds, flat panel tv'S and attention to detail which reflects the host's many years of experience in the hospitality business. Although it was winter and the outside facilities were closed, the outside landscaped spaces reflect the same level of attention to detail as the rest of this grand Inn.
The Inn was everything we had hoped and more with a fresh, warm breakfast of croissants, scones, fruit jam, butter and piping hot coffee and a selection of teas.
Our room was located on the third floor with a picture window which perfectly framed the Downtown skyline and the Space Needle; something that came in very handy during the 'First-Night' celebration and fireworks set off from the needle.
After unpacking we decided to walk downtown to Pike's Street Market, located about 1.8 miles away (according to our trusty GPS, the famous and frequently maligned 'Lady in the Box'), grabbing our hat and coat we headed down Pine Street for a 30 minute walk to the Market. Did we mention we are in Seattle in winter and it is raining...But, I repeat myself. Seattle in winter is the very definition of rain. Doesn't rain a lot, just all the time according to the locals we met along the way. Thoroughly, uhhh moist from our walk, we find the market and wade in to do that most tourist of attractions, watch Fish throwing and the singing salesmen at the various fish stands who put on a kind of theatrical machismo show to locals who are actually buying beautiful seafood for their New Year's parties. This famous market is packed with great piles of beautiful vegetables, fruit, fresh pastry and breads, ubiquitous coffee stands (did we mention we were in Seattle???), Arts and crafts works reminiscent of the 60's, creatively arranged dried flower bouquets, jewelry, woodwork, crafts and much, much, more.. The whole place reminded us of Paris where produce and patisseries looked like works of art. Booth after booth of items for sale lined this entirely covered water front market which meanders through several buildings each with multiple floors.
The market and the entire harbor front was abuzz with activity even on this rainy and overcast but, perfectly normal Seattle day. According to the guide books, the locals can easily spot a tourist as the ones using umbrellas, whereas, locals wear hats and rain jackets. We walked around the markets window shopping and finally decided on a T-shirt gift for our friend, Dirk. (There is no shopping on this trip since there is no place to store the loot.) Where did we see that rest room? Oh yes, main building, next to the ramp where they throw the fish, then down one floor, on the left and just in time! Pike Street Market is also packed with small restaurants so we decided to try some authentic Chinese food enjoying a great lunch while watching a post-middle aged gentleman two floors below in the Tattoo parlor across the street receive a new tattoo on his derriere. The whole restaurant enjoyed a ring-side seat, so to speak, watching this gentleman's attempt at resolving his mid life crisis. In this experience we learned a valuable lesson... Always get a tattoo at a studio located in a windowless basement, especially if you intend to have it applied to a location not even your closet friends have seen.
Ever adventuresome, we decided to return to the Inn by walking back up Pike Street. Initially, it seemed less steep, but it must have been an optical illusion...or some cheap parlor trick. I think I mentioned we are in Seattle and it is raining? So walkers take note! Also, 1.8 miles downhill expands to something approaching 20 miles going uphill in the rain, when you are already soaked and full of a huge Chinese dinner. I don't know, maybe the 'Lady in the Box ' was speaking meters going downhill and changed to miles for the uphill grind back to the Gaslight Inn? By the Way, we could have taken the #10 Bus which would have delivered us to the Market and brought us straight back to the Inn but no, we're adventuresome... Actually, after 3 days on the train the exercise felt good, but the long nap afterward felt even better!
There are few luxuries in life which can compete with the opportunity for a well-deserved nap at a time convenient to all parties. Comfortable bed, no schedule, old movies on the TV, Bob downloading books on to his Kindle, characteristic Seattle weather outside our window, it was nice to relax in a warm room behind a wall of glass framing a most perfect view of the Seattle skyline.
When night fell and the lights of the city grabbed the skyline, it was like a siren's call to get us out again to enjoy the excitement and adventure of whatever the city presented. We explored the neighborhood for a few minutes before it began to rain again. Seattle, winter, Rain...remember? We found a local bar and were treated like royalty (“Helloooo, stranger, new in Town? Oh you have a guest house in Provincetown? I've been there... Are you near Tea dance?”). Nothing like meeting the locals to raise your spirits and to share New Years. As midnight approached we headed back to enjoy the most perfect view of the fire works spectacle that went on from the space needle. The fireworks were coordinated with a musical score delivered on TV and the radio which really added to the 'WOW' factor. It was an impressive show, but soon after it became clear that the more important show would soon be playing on the back of our eye lids as we welcomed 2010 with a resounding ZZZZZ.
New Year's Day 2010; We are in Seattle and it is, you guessed it, raining. We head out to find a New Year's buffet at one of the local eateries where, again, the 1960's atmosphere and lively young customers provided an interesting backdrop for breakfast and made us realize how living in Provincetown doesn't afford us the opportunity to be around younger people as much as we would like. They have a sense of energy that is intoxicating and bring back memories of lost years when we were that age.
By the time we finished brunch it was, well, you know, Seattle in winter... So we headed back to the Gaslight to pass the day just plain relaxing... reading, processing pictures, downloading books, watching old movies, napping... We were like two sloths hanging from the perfect tree!
We finished our stay in Sunny Seattle (gotcha!) with a superb dinner, again, in a Capital Hill restaurant full of positive energy and good cheer. We got a good nights sleep and were at the train station the next morning with plenty of time before our 9:45am train to San Francisco.
Despite the rain, we loved Seattle and plan to come back for an extended visit when we have a better hat and rain coat. If you compare rainfall in New York City with Seattle you will be surprised that they are roughly equivalent. The difference is in the amount per event. In NYC a storm might bring 1-2” of rain whereas in Seattle it might take a month of daily spritzing to reach the same amount.
However, NYC=frigid & SNOW in January, Seattle = a balmy 40° and rain...Hmmm, You don't have to shovel rain, do you? I've been needing a new rain coat!
Being in the hospitality business ourselves, we have to give a very hearty recommendation to Trevor and Steve and their crew at the Gaslight Inn. It is a class operation, reasonably priced, centrally located and a superb location to spend a night or a week.
The Inn is a stately, craftsman-style home lovingly restored and meticulously maintained by her owners. Located in a residential neighborhood with friendly restaurants and stores just two blocks away, The Gaslight Inn has a rich palette of interior furnishings such as oak wainscoting, recessed oak paneling, and massive pocket doors separating its many public spaces. The owner's have lavished the property with very tasteful collections of Stickley-style furniture, native American artifacts, regional paintings and a magnificent collection of Murano-style local glass sculptures. Entering the Gasdlight Inn, Two parlor rooms flank a welcoming entrance foyer with an oversized round oak table replete with a large spray of fresh flowers. The paneled dining room with a magnificent quarter sawn oak dining table is accented with alcoves displaying local glass sculptures. The guest rooms are large and well appointed, with overstuffed leather chairs, comfortable beds, flat panel tv'S and attention to detail which reflects the host's many years of experience in the hospitality business. Although it was winter and the outside facilities were closed, the outside landscaped spaces reflect the same level of attention to detail as the rest of this grand Inn.
The Inn was everything we had hoped and more with a fresh, warm breakfast of croissants, scones, fruit jam, butter and piping hot coffee and a selection of teas.
Our room was located on the third floor with a picture window which perfectly framed the Downtown skyline and the Space Needle; something that came in very handy during the 'First-Night' celebration and fireworks set off from the needle.
After unpacking we decided to walk downtown to Pike's Street Market, located about 1.8 miles away (according to our trusty GPS, the famous and frequently maligned 'Lady in the Box'), grabbing our hat and coat we headed down Pine Street for a 30 minute walk to the Market. Did we mention we are in Seattle in winter and it is raining...But, I repeat myself. Seattle in winter is the very definition of rain. Doesn't rain a lot, just all the time according to the locals we met along the way. Thoroughly, uhhh moist from our walk, we find the market and wade in to do that most tourist of attractions, watch Fish throwing and the singing salesmen at the various fish stands who put on a kind of theatrical machismo show to locals who are actually buying beautiful seafood for their New Year's parties. This famous market is packed with great piles of beautiful vegetables, fruit, fresh pastry and breads, ubiquitous coffee stands (did we mention we were in Seattle???), Arts and crafts works reminiscent of the 60's, creatively arranged dried flower bouquets, jewelry, woodwork, crafts and much, much, more.. The whole place reminded us of Paris where produce and patisseries looked like works of art. Booth after booth of items for sale lined this entirely covered water front market which meanders through several buildings each with multiple floors.
The market and the entire harbor front was abuzz with activity even on this rainy and overcast but, perfectly normal Seattle day. According to the guide books, the locals can easily spot a tourist as the ones using umbrellas, whereas, locals wear hats and rain jackets. We walked around the markets window shopping and finally decided on a T-shirt gift for our friend, Dirk. (There is no shopping on this trip since there is no place to store the loot.) Where did we see that rest room? Oh yes, main building, next to the ramp where they throw the fish, then down one floor, on the left and just in time! Pike Street Market is also packed with small restaurants so we decided to try some authentic Chinese food enjoying a great lunch while watching a post-middle aged gentleman two floors below in the Tattoo parlor across the street receive a new tattoo on his derriere. The whole restaurant enjoyed a ring-side seat, so to speak, watching this gentleman's attempt at resolving his mid life crisis. In this experience we learned a valuable lesson... Always get a tattoo at a studio located in a windowless basement, especially if you intend to have it applied to a location not even your closet friends have seen.
Ever adventuresome, we decided to return to the Inn by walking back up Pike Street. Initially, it seemed less steep, but it must have been an optical illusion...or some cheap parlor trick. I think I mentioned we are in Seattle and it is raining? So walkers take note! Also, 1.8 miles downhill expands to something approaching 20 miles going uphill in the rain, when you are already soaked and full of a huge Chinese dinner. I don't know, maybe the 'Lady in the Box ' was speaking meters going downhill and changed to miles for the uphill grind back to the Gaslight Inn? By the Way, we could have taken the #10 Bus which would have delivered us to the Market and brought us straight back to the Inn but no, we're adventuresome... Actually, after 3 days on the train the exercise felt good, but the long nap afterward felt even better!
There are few luxuries in life which can compete with the opportunity for a well-deserved nap at a time convenient to all parties. Comfortable bed, no schedule, old movies on the TV, Bob downloading books on to his Kindle, characteristic Seattle weather outside our window, it was nice to relax in a warm room behind a wall of glass framing a most perfect view of the Seattle skyline.
When night fell and the lights of the city grabbed the skyline, it was like a siren's call to get us out again to enjoy the excitement and adventure of whatever the city presented. We explored the neighborhood for a few minutes before it began to rain again. Seattle, winter, Rain...remember? We found a local bar and were treated like royalty (“Helloooo, stranger, new in Town? Oh you have a guest house in Provincetown? I've been there... Are you near Tea dance?”). Nothing like meeting the locals to raise your spirits and to share New Years. As midnight approached we headed back to enjoy the most perfect view of the fire works spectacle that went on from the space needle. The fireworks were coordinated with a musical score delivered on TV and the radio which really added to the 'WOW' factor. It was an impressive show, but soon after it became clear that the more important show would soon be playing on the back of our eye lids as we welcomed 2010 with a resounding ZZZZZ.
New Year's Day 2010; We are in Seattle and it is, you guessed it, raining. We head out to find a New Year's buffet at one of the local eateries where, again, the 1960's atmosphere and lively young customers provided an interesting backdrop for breakfast and made us realize how living in Provincetown doesn't afford us the opportunity to be around younger people as much as we would like. They have a sense of energy that is intoxicating and bring back memories of lost years when we were that age.
By the time we finished brunch it was, well, you know, Seattle in winter... So we headed back to the Gaslight to pass the day just plain relaxing... reading, processing pictures, downloading books, watching old movies, napping... We were like two sloths hanging from the perfect tree!
We finished our stay in Sunny Seattle (gotcha!) with a superb dinner, again, in a Capital Hill restaurant full of positive energy and good cheer. We got a good nights sleep and were at the train station the next morning with plenty of time before our 9:45am train to San Francisco.
Despite the rain, we loved Seattle and plan to come back for an extended visit when we have a better hat and rain coat. If you compare rainfall in New York City with Seattle you will be surprised that they are roughly equivalent. The difference is in the amount per event. In NYC a storm might bring 1-2” of rain whereas in Seattle it might take a month of daily spritzing to reach the same amount.
However, NYC=frigid & SNOW in January, Seattle = a balmy 40° and rain...Hmmm, You don't have to shovel rain, do you? I've been needing a new rain coat!
Being in the hospitality business ourselves, we have to give a very hearty recommendation to Trevor and Steve and their crew at the Gaslight Inn. It is a class operation, reasonably priced, centrally located and a superb location to spend a night or a week.
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